Day 7 extra – A 3 hour tour. And the weather was even a
little rough.
A fun thing about going to the bridge is that they seem to
deliberately leave one of the doors to an officer’s cabin open so you can look
in. They are big and very nice. The bridge itself in some ways gets less and
less interesting as things get more and more automated – fewer buttons and switches
and dials, more keyboards and screens. One thing that stood out to me is that they still plot the course on paper,
by hand – even though all the computers have backup systems (and some of those
systems have backup systems), this one piece of information is available even
if everything electronic goes down. Another thing I liked was that the ship
still has a steering wheel, but it is tiny – like some little sports car. Also
we found out that the ship’s call sign is PBKH, which explains why all the
tenders have those letters stenciled on them. The bridge tour was given by the
3rd officer, Liam, who looked about 15 years old.
Next stop, backstage. Two of the singers sat in the women’s
dressing room with us and talked about putting on the big productions. Two things
I learned: the productions are very expensive to develop and stage (with
costumes by Bob Mackie), so each one run for 3-4 years, and may run on more
than one ship. So if you cruise often, and especially if you do it on the same
ship, you will see the same shows. Also, we already knew the singer/dancer
contracts are for 8 months, but what I didn’t know is that when they are
looking for replacements they aren’t just looking for talent, they’re also
looking for a particular size and shape of person, to limit alterations. What a
bummer if you were just what they were looking for, only too short? Mark, the
singer who gave this part of the tour, had the unnerving intensity that you
sometimes see in professional actors, but his female counterpart was unusually
quiet.
Once we’d finished with the bridge and backstage, we headed
down to the bowels of the ship (deck C) to see the less glamorous parts of the
ship. Our next stop was the laundry, where hundreds of sheets and towels and
pillowcases were going through the giant washers, dryers, and irons. Highlights
from the laundry, aside from the sheer volume, were that the linens for the
pinnacle grill are laundered separately with banana oil to make them feel
softer and smoother. And the demonstration of the the pants steamer. You attach
the waistband to a stretcher which opens them out, and put the bottom cuffs
into clamps. They you push a button, the pants are drawn tight and whoosh,
filled with steam, then hot air. It’s quite fun to watch. I especially liked
the parallel between the action of the pants steamer and the cruise on the
pants – they started out hanging loosely, but as time went on got fuller and
tighter.
After the laundry we stopped at the tailor shop, where 3
guys make all the uniforms for all crew members. 3-4 uniforms per crew member. When you realize
that they’ll sometimes get 60-80 new crew at a time, it’s a mind boggling task.
They even make the beanies that the bellboys wear. It kind of changed how we
looked at the clothes the crew was wearing when we got back out on the ship. Oh,
and they also do the monogramming on the HAL bathrobes if you order one on the
ship, so now we’ve seen where that happened to Dave’s. Also in this section of
the tour we went through the crew dining area and the petty officer dining
area, but I don’t remember exactly when. Officers and staff eat in the Lido.
Next stop, possibly the best on the tour: garbage room.
Industrial sized disposer (with a vacuum so powerful we thought the crew
members operating it might be sucked in). Glass shredders. Compactor. Here’s
what we learned that was interesting – HAL doesn’t dump anything overboard –
garbage is containerized on the ship. But they also have contracts at different
ports to get rid of different garbage, and apparently Victoria is a big garbage
offloading port. If you think about it, the ship has limited storage space, so
baggage is held for loading & unloading where the garbage is also held
(safely containerized) for unloading. So if we don’t stop at Victoria and get
rid of the garbage, where will the baggage go? Norman, the health and safety
and something else officer who gave us the tour (he was Scottish and one of the
best guides) was a little preoccupied with moving things around.
Onward through the storage areas, including the place where
huge replacement parts for the azipods are kept (the azipods are the giant
propellers in the back that can swivel 360 degrees and actually pull, rather
than push, the ship through the water) to the food area, the largest section of
the tour. Here we were picked up by the assistant culinary manager, Jurgen. First stop with Jurgen was the bakery, where
they had fresh cookies for us and were making rolls with one of the roll shaker
machines that they have at grand central bakery.
Next, off to the food storage areas, where we came to
understand why the tour is at the end of the trip – there wouldn’t have been
anywhere for us to stand. Here we learned so many interesting things it’s
almost too much to write about. Let’s start with when they get food. Apparently
frozen food and staples are picked up every 2 weeks, even on the one week
cruises. Fruits, vegetables, and dairy (including eggs) come in weekly. This
stop in Seattle was a big shopping week – the full 2 weeks of staples plus the
weekly allowance. Combine that with having to offload all of the garbage from
the same holes in the ship where the food would be coming in, and Jurgen was
also somewhat preoccupied. Another thing you wouldn’t think of is that the beef
comes in frozen and uncut. It’s thawed in a giant refrigerator, and takes about
3 days to thaw. So you can imagine that they have to be very systematic about
remembering to get it out in time to have it ready to cut and cook – a problem
we sometimes have at home, only they can’t just order pizza.
We stopped in the alcohol cooler, where all the beer and
wine and spirits live. They gave us each a glass of champagne and here we
learned more about demographics. We’d learned at the meat freezers that the
average age of cruisers changes based on the length of the cruise – the 7 day
cruises skew much younger. From a meat perspective, that means more beef, less
chicken and fish. In the alcohol cooler we found that it means more beer. Also
we learned that you can call ship services and have them stock your favorite
local brew – this made Dave pay attention. Then it was on to the nearly empty
dairy locker, with one lone wheel of Gouda sitting on a shelf and just a few of
the 23,000 dozen eggs that they’d use in a week. Jurgen said that sometimes at
Christmas they would decorate that particular freezer so they could have a cold
place to celebrate.
Now we’d been where the raw materials were stored, so it was
up the garbage elevator to the food prep areas, which we’d seen already on the
standard kitchen tour. Jurgen pointed out the soup kettles (at home you’d use
them for hot tubs, he said). The sheer size and amount of work is amazing. For
example, for dinner there’s one kitchen for the open seating for about 600-800
people, which is mostly like a regular restaurant except the menu changes every
night. Then there’s another kitchen for the two fixed seatings, in which 400
people per seating need to be fed more or less simultaneously. The Lido,
Pinnacle, and Cannaletto restaurants have their own kitchens. All the food is
prepared as ‘a la minute’ as possible, with line cooks doing the final cooking.
Each entrée is prepared at its own station, and the waiters have to stop at
each station and pick up however many they need. It’s controlled chaos.
Maenwhile the executive chef is sitting in his office watching all of it
through multiple remote-control cameras that let him zoom in even on a
particular plate to make sure the “product” is all up to standard. One thing we
have been frustrated with on this trip is that (with the exception of the
fish), the meats (including shellfish) have generally been overcooked; we
wonder if this has to do with the kitchen crew all being new, and if the open
seating dining would be better since it’s not quite as mass-prepared? (Dave
points out that breakfast and lunch in the main dining room are also open seating
and the cooking wasn’t any better, so maybe not.
Also in this area on the wall they have the plating charts, which
come from headquarters and have all the menus with pictures of how everything
is supposed to look, which is how I found out that night’s dinner included my
beloved espresso-date pudding for dessert. Yay! We finished our walk through
the kitchen and came out in the dining room. This is one of these “well, duh”
moments where you realize that of course the kitchen comes out in the dining
room, but you’re completely disoriented anyway.
Last stop was back to the piano bar, where we got Holland
America bags filled with goodies – our group picture with the Captain, a signed
menu, one of the HAL cookbooks and a set of HAL shot glasses (about which my
first thought was oh, crap, our suitcases were already almost at 50 lbs – where
are we going to put those?). They also had drinks and appetizers for us (not in
the bags), and soon we were joined by James Deering, the hotel manager, who
knew absolutely everything and was happy to talk about it. James had just
returned to the Oosterdam after a stint with Princess cruise lines (also owned
by Carnival, but he had to actually resign from his job before he could talk to
the other cruise line – they discourage inter-line transfers). He told us about
everything from having to remove passengers from the ship for stealing or
fighting or throwing furniture overboard, to how to choose the best cabins (not
near the bow thrusters, or over or under where the music is, or near the
cleaning supply closet, or…) to the difference in demographics between the
shorter and longer cruises, and how there’s even a difference between Alaska
cruises that leave from Seattle vs Vancouver (Vancouver has a higher percentage
of international passengers). We learned about the training facilities in Indonesia
and the Phillipines – the one in Indonesia, he said, is “a building on the
outside and a ship on the inside” – basically it has replicas of everything on
the ship, since the crew has to hit the ground running. No time to learn to
make towel animals or clean a cabin once you’re on board. The Filipinos are
primarily in the dining room and bars, so their training facility is smaller
and more specialized. He also told us that many of the cruises are sold as charters,
including the nude charter, which is an interesting idea given how cold they
keep the ship. James was very forthcoming and engaging (Edith and Stacy Ann had
been delighted to have him back on board, since he throws very good crew
parties) and we would have asked him questions all day, but his cell phone rang
again and he excused himself, saying that it was the captain and he had to go
deal with something.
And that was the end of the 3 hour tour. It exceeded both of
our expectations by quite a bit – we learned so much and felt like we’d gotten
to talk to all sorts of people and had a better idea of how the ship worked.
Plus we got to walk around in all sorts of back passages that passengers don’t
usually get to see, and also we had been fed – always a concern on the ship,
since you get used to eating every 30 minutes. The only place we didn’t get to
go that I’d like to have gone was the engine room, but since you have to go
down a ladder to get there they don’t let people do it. If you’re ever on a HAL
or Princess ship, I would definitely recommend this tour.